Costume cutters making costumes for productions in the film, television and live theatre/entertainment industries apply the skills and knowledge described in this unit.

Even though they usually work to briefs provided by costume designers, there is scope for costume cutters to be creative as they work on designs they are given. They need to be adept at interpreting sketches from costume designers, proportioning, and developing patterns through a combination of flat pattern making and construction, and pattern draping (moulage) of fabric onto a 3D dress form over corsetry and undergarments or underpinnings. Costume cutters also need to be familiar with a full range of sewing and finishing techniques.

Costume cutting and draping at this level is usually undertaken with some supervision and guidance.

Skills associated with more complex costume cutting and draping are covered in:

CUFCOS503A Cut and drape complex period costumes.

ELEMENT

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

Prepare for pattern cutting and draping of costumes

1. Confirm costume design and production requirements in consultation with relevant personnel

2. Prepare tools and equipment

3. Research and record relevant historical aspects of costume designs

4. Take and record performers' measurements

5. Identify special costume functional requirements of performers and performances and contribute ideas about the most effective way to achieve creative requirements

6. Document costume specifications

7. Produce a plan of action for pattern development

Develop patterns for costumes.

8. Select appropriate method of pattern development

9. Proportion costume designs on dress stands

10. Use pattern blocks or muslin on dress forms to develop or drape patterns

11. Engineer costume patterns

12. Conduct test toile trials and fittings and make adjustments as required

13. Seek approvals/concurrence from costume supervisors or designers

14. Modify patterns according to toile

15. Finalise and label costume patterns

Compile component requirements for costumes

16. Use patterns and design specifications to calculate accurate quantities of fabric and notions

17. Record requirements and quantities

18. Source requirements

19. Plan lay marker according to fabric dimensions

20. Spread fabrics according to plans

21. Place patterns on fabrics and cut according to cutting instructions

22. Compile cut pieces and components ready for construction

Required skills

planning and organising skills sufficient to follow a pattern development plan of action

self-management skills sufficient to:

work under pressure and meet deadlines

follow costume design specifications and enterprise policies and procedures

seek expert advice when problems arise

communication, literacy and teamwork skills sufficient to:

interpret production documentation, costume design specifications and instructions

conduct independent research to assist in the accurate interpretation of costume designs

work collaboratively as a member of a production team

communicate and negotiate with suppliers of costume components

communicate effectively with costume designers and performers during costume toile fitting sessions

write or communicate pattern cutting instructions

complete workplace documentation

initiative and flexibility in the context of:

contributing ideas about the most efficient way to cut and drape patterns for costumes to meet creative and construction requirements

making adjustments to costume toiles and patterns in response to trials

problem solving skills in the context of making costume patterns that meet costume design requirements

technical skills sufficient to:

use the basic principles of pattern development

pivoting

square blocking

contour sectioning

use computer applications in the context of producing or adjusting patterns

drape fabrics on a dress form to produce patterns (moulage)

numeracy skills sufficient to measure materials and estimate quantities

Required knowledge

industry knowledge, including:

protocols between costume cutters, costume supervisors, costume designers and performers

roles and responsibilities of personnel in the relevant industry sector

broad understanding of the artistic and technical elements of productions

relationship between costume designs and final patterns

well-developed understanding of the properties of different fabrics and their suitability for specified designs

principles and techniques of pattern cutting

pattern engineering

principles and techniques of costume construction

OHS procedures as they relate to the safe use of machinery, equipment and materials to make patterns

The Evidence Guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.

Overview of assessment

Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit

Evidence of the following is essential:

ability to interpret costume designs

ability to conduct research and apply findings to costume pattern development

making of patterns for costumes that meet design, production and performers' requirements and demonstrate an ability to:

develop patterns for costumes using flat pattern cutting

develop patterns for costumes by draping (moulage) methods

engineer patterns and conduct test trials on performers

ability to meet deadlines

collaborative approach to work

attention to accuracy and detail.

Context of and specific resources for assessment

Assessment must ensure:

practical demonstration of skills through the development of patterns for a variety of costume designs using a range of cutting and draping methods

access to tools and equipment as listed in the range statement

access to appropriate learning and assessment support when required

use of culturally appropriate processes and techniques appropriate to the language and literacy capacity of learners and the work being performed.

Method of assessment

A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit:

direct questioning combined with review of patterns and third-party workplace reports of on-the-job performance

evaluation of cutting and patterns made by the candidate to determine whether costume design requirements

observation of the candidate during pattern engineering and fitting sessions with performers to assess communication, analytical and problem solving skills

written or verbal questioning to test knowledge as listed in the required skills and knowledge section of this unit have been met and correct procedures followed.

Guidance information for assessment

Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example:

CUECOS12B Make costumes for dance and physical theatre

CUECOS10B Make period costumes.

The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included.

Relevant personnel may include:

costume cutter

costume designer

costume maker

costume production staff

director

make-up and hair personnel

other specialist staff

performers

production manager

wardrobe department personnel

wardrobe supervisor/manager.

Tools and equipment may include:

calico or muslin

cotton tape

cutting tables

dress forms/dressmaker's dummies

hand-held cutting machines

measuring tapes

pattern board/paper

pattern hooks

pattern making table

pen, pencil, rubber, pins

ruler

scissors and cutters

tracing wheel.

Costume designs may include:

child

contemporary designs

costumes that do not require elaborate underpinnings or structures

female

historical reproduction designs

male.

Costume functional requirements may include:

allowance for multiple sizing

comfort

durability

extra movement capabilities

production requirements

requirements for performance genre

safety.

Costume specifications may include:

costume and undergarment requirements

ease allowances

fabric and trim requirements

gender and figure proportions

performance requirements.

Plan of action may include:

determining fitting positions in relation to designs

schedule of fittings

selection of pattern development methods

sequencing of development.

Proportioning costume designs may include:

making a test toile for a performer and checking the design in 3D

seeking approvals from costume supervisor or designers before transferring 3D plans to flat patterns

transferring 3D placement to flat patterns

using a dress form/dress maker's dummy to position or place design lines in 3D.

Engineering may include:

adjusting and modifying pattern development

evaluating tests or trials

progressively testing parts of patterns or designs on a 3D form.

Costume patterns may include:

cardboard

computer generated

muslin/calico

paper.

Unit sector

Visual communication - Costume

This unit contains employability skills.