Costume makers working on productions in the film, television and live theatre/entertainment industries apply the skills and knowledge described in this unit. Costumes often require structured underpinnings in the form of corsetry and undergarments to give costumes a particular silhouette when worn by performers. This is particularly true of costumes that are based on the fashion of periods in history, such as the crinolines of the early Victorian period that require bell-shaped cage structures, under skirts and hour-glass corsetry under bodices. Even though they usually work to briefs provided by costume designers, there is scope for costume makers to be creative as they work on the designs they are given. They need to be adept at pattern drafting and familiar with a full range of sewing and finishing techniques. This work is usually undertaken with minimal supervision and guidance. Skills associated with making the more complex costumes to be worn over these undergarments are covered in: CUECOS10A Make period costumes CUECOS11A Make character costumes. |
ELEMENT | PERFORMANCE CRITERIA |
Construct patterns for period and contemporary corsets and undergarments | 1. Confirm and discuss corsetry and undergarment requirements with relevant personnel and with reference to production documentation 2. Determine and take body measurements required for pattern construction 3. Calculate measurements required for construction 4. Record measurements according to enterprise procedures 5. Use taken and calculated measurements to construct corset and undergarment patterns 6. Test toiles for patterns and make adjustments to fit or proportioning 7. Transfer adjustments to the construction or patterns 8. Make final patterns with cutting instructions, and necessary pattern labelling 9. |
Lay up and cut corsets and undergarments | 10. Estimate metreage of fabric required according to final patterns 11. Lay fabric and place patterns according to cutting instructions 12. Cut materials to meet pattern requirements 13. Transfer necessary notches and balance points from patterns to fabrics |
Sew and finish corsets and undergarments | 14. Determine components required in consultation with relevant personnel 15. Pin or sew fabric pieces and components using a systematic sequence of operations 16. Fit corsets or undergarments during assembly and make adjustments and alterations to meet performers' requirements and construction specifications 17. Use appropriate techniques and equipment to sew fabric and component pieces together to form undergarments 18. Label finished corsets and undergarments according to requirements. |
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Required skills |
communication, literacy and teamwork skills sufficient to: interpret production documentation, costume construction specifications and instructions work collaboratively as a member of a production team communicate effectively with performers during costume fitting sessions complete workplace documentation initiative and flexibility in the context of: contributing ideas about the most efficient way to construct and finish corsetry and undergarments to meet creative requirements making last-minute adjustments to corsetry and undergarments problem solving skills in the context of making corsetry and undergarments that fit and can be worn comfortably during productions planning and organising skills sufficient to construct corsetry and undergarments in a logical sequence technical skills sufficient to: use sewing machines to make corsetry and undergarments use computer applications in the context of producing or adjusting patterns self-management skills sufficient to: work under pressure and meet deadlines follow manufacturer specifications and enterprise policies and procedures seek expert advice when problems arise numeracy skills sufficient to measure materials and fit corsetry and undergarments |
Required knowledge |
industry knowledge, including: structure of the relevant industry sector roles and responsibilities of personnel in the relevant industry sector broad understanding of the artistic and technical elements of productions well-developed understanding of the properties of different fabrics principles and techniques of corsetry and undergarment construction and fitting techniques for making alterations to patterns after fittings testing patterns in toile-form before finalising patterns OHS procedures as they relate to the safe use of equipment and materials to make corsetry and undergarments |
The Evidence Guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package. | |
Overview of assessment | |
Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit | Evidence of the following is essential: construction of a range of period and contemporary corsetry and undergarments to be worn with costumes that meet production requirements and demonstrate an ability to: construct patterns using taken and calculated measurements lay up and cut work sew, fit and finish corsetry and undergarments ability to meet deadlines collaborative approach to work attention to detail. |
Context of and specific resources for assessment | Assessment must ensure: practical demonstration of skills through the design and construction of a range of corsetry and undergarments that underpin a variety of period silhouettes access to materials and equipment as listed in the range statement access to appropriate learning and assessment support when required use of culturally appropriate processes and techniques appropriate to the language and literacy capacity of learners and the work being performed. |
Method of assessment | A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit: direct questioning combined with review of portfolios of evidence and third-party workplace reports of on-the-job performance evaluation of corsetry and undergarments made by the candidate to determine whether production requirements have been met and correct procedures followed observation of the candidate during fitting and toiling sessions to assess communication and problem solving skills written or verbal questioning to test knowledge as listed in the required skills and knowledge section of this unit. |
Guidance information for assessment | Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example: LMTFD4011A Cut fabrics for prototype designs LMTFD4015A Create pattern from a block to meet customer specifications. |
The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included. | |
Corsetry may include: | 19th century corsets contemporary corsets Tudor corsets other period corsets. |
Undergarments may include: | bustles cage crinolines pads panniers rolls wheel farthingales. |
Relevant personnel may include: | costume designer costume maker costume production staff director make-up and hair personnel other specialist staff performers production manager wardrobe department personnel wardrobe supervisor/manager. |
Documentation may include: | call sheets computer generated costume break-down lists costume patterns costume plots descriptive costume checklists manually written manufacture schedules manufacturer specifications/instructions measurement charts memos of instruction operational/project plan production schedules running sheets scripts. |
Body measurements may include: | bust rise bust/chest high hip/abdominal extension hips leg length length of back length of skirt midriff waist. |
Measurements may include: | across back width armhole width front width length of front neck under-arm level upper-arm width. |
Test toiles may include: | assembling paper patterns and placing on 3D forms calico testing of pattern parts testing whole patterns in calico. |
Pattern labelling may include: | cutting instructions grain line name of pattern piece number of pattern pieces in a set pattern style name performer's name size. |
Materials may include: | calico canvas coutil or other suitable corsetry textile interfacing lace lawn wadding. |
Components may include: | bias binding busks crin steel eyelets fasteners/hooks and bars/snaps haberdashery lacing plastic and spiral boning twill tape. |
Techniques may include: | cutting hand sewing machining. |
Equipment may include: | emery paper eyelet machine pattern making rulers pencils pins scissors sewing machines stiletto wire cutters. |
Unit sector |
Visual communication - Costume |
This unit contains employability skills. |
Not applicable.