MSTFD5002
Develop and test patterns for bras and swimwear


Application

This unit of competency covers the skills and knowledge to develop and test patterns for bra and swimwear production using an existing block and applying patternmaking principles.

The unit of competency applies to patterns which include structured foundations. Bras and swimwear that do not include these components are covered in other patternmaking units.

This unit of competency applies to working as an individual or as part of a production team to develop and test a pattern from an existing block, using advanced principles of patternmaking.

Work may be conducted in small to large scale enterprises and may involve individual and team activities.

No licensing, legislative or certification requirements apply to this unit at the time of publication.


Elements and Performance Criteria

Elements describe the essential outcomes.

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to demonstrate achievement of the element.

1

Determine job requirements

1.1

Follow standard operating procedures (SOPs)

1.2

Comply with work health and safety (WHS) requirements at all times

1.3

Use appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) in accordance with SOPs

1.4

Identify job requirements from specifications, drawings, job sheets or work instructions

2

Prepare to develop patterns for bras and swimwear

2.1

Select and prepare patter-making tools, equipment, additional materials, if required, and workstation

2.2

Interpret and clarify design drawings and specifications, and identify design lines and style features

2.3

Confirm fabric characteristics and performance, trims, components and finishings specified in the design

2.4

Consider current practices, specialised needs and special construction methods for bras and swimwear with structured foundations

2.5

Determine size standards for fit

3

Create pattern for bras and swimwear

3.1

Plan pattern production according to quality and workplace standards

3.2

Select appropriate block for developing bra or swimwear pattern

3.3

Make necessary adjustments to seams to create silhouette to match design brief

3.4

Produce pattern using advanced patternmaking principles and document methods and formulas used

3.5

Check pattern pieces, label and complete markings

3.6

Identify and document any construction problems and check pattern meets Australian Standards

4

Check and finalise pattern

4.1

Construct segments and assess the pattern is compatible with design

4.2

Complete any pattern alterations and assess pattern meets fit and design requirements

4.3

Finalise pattern and check it is accurate, complete and complies with design specifications

4.4

Complete pattern specification sheet, attach to patterns for storage and file appropriately

Evidence of Performance

Evidence required to demonstrate competence in this unit must be relevant to and satisfy the requirements of the elements and performance criteria, and include:

reading and following work instructions, standard operating procedures (SOPs) and safe work practices

interpreting and clarifying design drawings and specifications

applying industry standards to create patterns to meet client briefs for at least two (2) different target groups or specialised needs, using two (2) different types of fabric: one-way stretch, two-way stretch or no stretch fabric

using patternmaking tools and equipment according to industry practices and choosing appropriate existing block to develop at least two (2) patterns for bras or swimwear

producing patterns that meet Australian Standards, using advanced patternmaking principles and documenting methods and formulas used

checking pattern pieces, labelling and completing markings, and documenting any construction problems

constructing segments, completing any pattern alterations, finalising pattern and assessing pattern meets fit and design requirements

completing pattern specification sheet, attaching to patterns for storage and filing appropriately.


Evidence of Knowledge

Evidence must be provided that demonstrates knowledge of:

safe work practices and procedures and use of personal protective equipment (PPE)

Australian Standards for patterns and garment construction

patternmaking tools and equipment:

scissors

square rule

marker pens

hole punch

pins

fashion triangle

French curve

pattern notcher

weights

tape measure

computer-aided design (CAD) terminal and program

design specifications and procedures

patternmaking principles and procedures

components of structured garments :

straps

hooks

elastic

fasteners

ribbon

underwire

foam padding

oil filled straps

rings

fine lace and delicate fabrics

current practices and special construction methods for bras and swimwear with structured foundations :

fusing

gluing

moulding

sewing requirements

seam allowances

stitch requirements

seam finishes, such as flat seam, blind hem and French seam

design requirements and style features:

garment type (bra and swimwear)

number of panels

sleeves

sides

openings

neckline

seams

gathers

pleats

panel tucks

customer and workplace fit requirements

fabric characteristics of one-way, two-way and no-stretch fabrics

marker making procedures

pattern markings:

appropriate seam allowance

notching

pattern information (size, style number, cutting instructions and identity)

darts

drill holes

grain line

cutting line

stitching line

cutting and garment construction

maintaining accurate records.


Assessment Conditions

Assessors must:

satisfy the assessor competency requirements that are in place at the time of the assessment, as set by the VET regulator

have vocational competency in developing patterns for bras and swimwear at least to the level being assessed, with relevant industry knowledge and experience.

Assessment should occur in operational workplace situations. Where this is not possible, or where personal safety or environmental damage are limiting factors, assessment must occur in a sufficiently rigorous simulated environment reflecting realistic operational workplace conditions. This must cover all aspects of workplace performance, including environment, task skills, task management skills, contingency management skills and job role environment skills.

Assessment processes and techniques must be appropriate to the language, literacy and numeracy requirements of the work being performed and the needs of the candidate.

Conditions for assessment must include access to all tools, equipment, materials and documentation required, including relevant workplace procedures, product and manufacturing specifications associated with this unit.


Foundation Skills

This section describes those required skills (language, literacy and numeracy) that are essential to performance.

Foundation skills essential to performance are explicit in the performance criteria of this unit of competency.


Range Statement

This field allows for different work environments and conditions that may affect performance. Essential operating conditions that may be present (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) are included.

Workplace procedures include one or more of the following:

requirements prescribed by legislation, awards, agreements and conditions of employment

SOPs

work instructions

oral, written and visual communication

quality practices, including responsibility for maintenance of own work quality and contribution to quality improvement of team or section output

housekeeping

tasks related to environmental protection, waste disposal, pollution control and recycling

WHS practices

Australian Standards include:

the relevant industry or Australian Standards that are current at the time this unit is being undertaken

Structured foundations include one or more of the following:

boning

underwire

corsetry

Fabrics include one or more of the following:

one-way stretch

two-way stretch

no-stretch (bias cut fabrics)

Specialised needs include one or more of the following:

styling features relating to health effects of bra and swimwear construction

appropriate bra and swimwear structure for special client groups, including maternity, mastectomy, junior and costume wear

sports and fuller figure bras and swimwear and the need for extra support

use of specialist materials and trims

Advanced principles of patternmaking include one or more of the following:

pivoting

square blocking

contouring

Check pattern pieces includes one or more of the following:

accuracy of seam allowances

ease allowance

seam match

hems

functional openings

flow through

Methods and formulas include one or more of the following:

deviations from standard patterns

sources of pattern components

pattern derivation methods and formulas

block construction methods and formulas

application of current industry practice

Specification documents include:

number of pattern pieces

what the pattern consists of (e.g. 2 bodice, 1 sleeve)

measurement table

size table

technical drawing

details of types of materials (fabric, lining, fusing, elastic, closures and trims)

sign-off

recommendations for stitching


Sectors

Not applicable


Competency Field

Fashion design and technology