LMTFD6005B
Drape structured over-garments

This unit covers the skills and knowledge to perform structured draping for tailored over-garments such as jackets and overcoats.

Application

The unit applies to draping fabric with special considerations to fit balance, and inter-construction requirements of the jacket as an over-garment. Included, is the use of partial flat pattern construction or blocks to complement the drape, such as with the development of sleeves and collars. Draping may be for a one off garment that goes from drape to garment or a prototype that goes from drape to flat pattern for small volume production. Draping is performed on a body form such as a mannequin or model.

Work is supervised and may be conducted in small to large scale enterprises and may involve individual and team-related activities.

The application of this unit is according to OHS practices of the enterprise and workplace practices, which may include:

requirements prescribed by legislation, awards agreements and conditions of employment

standard operating procedures

work instructions

oral, written and visual communication

quality practices, including responsibility for maintenance of own work quality and contribution to quality improvement of team or section output

housekeeping

tasks related to environmental protection, waste disposal, pollution control, and recycling

This unit requires skills in planning and organising to plan and prepare for draping. Initiative and enterprise and problem solving skills are applied to conduct drape, make modifications and finalise drape. Communication skills are used to take measurements and record specifications. Self management skills are used to ensure results meet quality standards and design brief.



Elements and Performance Criteria

ELEMENT

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

1 Prepare draping tools and equipment

1.1 Work area is set up according to OHS practices and specifications for work.

1.2 Draping tools and equipment are selected and prepared.

1.3 Body form that is one size larger than actual size is selected.

1.4 Body form is prepared by applying additional padding required of the design, eg shoulder pads.

1.5 Body reference points are marked with tape on body form.

2 Prepare working drawings

2.1 Design lines are identified and plotted on body form using narrow tape.

2.2 Working drawing is developed.

2.3 Measurements are checked.

3 Prepare fabric for draping

3.1 Dimensions of fabric pieces required for drape are estimated according to chosen design.

3.2 Warp, weft and bias grains of fabric are identified.

3.3 Fabric handling qualities are identified.

4 Plan drape

4.1 Requirements for adding design ease for movement are identified.

4.2 Requirements for manipulating dart excess are identified.

4.3 Seam positioning is planned.

4.4 Drape plan is developed.

5 Perform draping

5.1 Fabric is pinned on body form relating reference points and fabric grains.

5.2 Fabric is moulded and manipulated on body form according to the design, fit and design schematic.

5.3 Ease is added to allow for movement.

5.4 If a requirement of chosen design, fullness or volume is incorporated into draping.

5.5 Fabric is smoothed and manipulated over contours of over-garments and along sketch design lines.

5.6 Darts and seams are formed and pinned for pattern creation or garment construction.

5.7 Collars or built-up necklines are draped according to the design.

5.8 Cut-on or set-in sleeves are partially flat-constructed or designed then placed on the drape.

5.9 Reference points are pinned.

5.10 Sleeve design is incorporated into drape.

5.11 Front, back and sleeve drapes are prepared for truing.

5.12 Truing is performed.

6 Finalise draping

6.1 Drape is removed from body form.

6.2 Drape is finalised and directed to next production process.

Required Skills

This describes the essential skills and knowledge and their level, required for this unit.

Demonstrates knowledge of:

principles and concepts of pattern making

customer and workplace requirements

cost efficiency in relation to pattern making

range of typical garment fabrics, including weight and other characteristics

flat pattern construction

cutting and garment construction

OHS practices, including hazard identification and control measures

quality practices

workplace practices

recording and reporting practices

Demonstrates skills to:

interpret design brief or specifications

interpret and apply defined procedures and motor skills

consistently achieve quality and production output requirements

read, interpret and follow information on work specifications, standard operating procedures and work instructions, and other reference material

maintain accurate records

communicate within the workplace

sequence operations

meet specifications

clarify and check task-related information

carry out work according to OHS practices

Evidence Required

The Evidence Guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the Performance Criteria, Required Skills and Knowledge, the Range Statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.

Critical aspects of evidence

Demonstrates skills and knowledge to:

prepare tools, equipment and fabric pieces

prepare design schematics

develop a draping plan

carry out the draping on the dress form

finalise the drape for next process

Consistency in performance

Consistently applies skills and knowledge when:

organising work

completing tasks

identifying improvements

using workplace practices

using OHS practices

recording and reporting accidents and incidents

assessing operational readiness of equipment used and work processes

recognising and adapting to cultural differences in the workplace, including modes of behaviour and interactions

completing work systematically with attention to detail without damage to goods and equipment

Resource implications

Access is required to real or appropriately simulated situations, including work areas, materials and equipment, and to information on workplace practices and OHS practices.

Context for assessment

Assessment may occur on the job or in an appropriately simulated environment.

Interdependent assessment

This unit may be assessed independently or in combination with other relevant units.


Range Statement

The Range Statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the Performance Criteria, is detailed below. Add any essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment depending on the work situation, needs if the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts.

Legislative/regulatory requirements

All work must comply with relevant Federal and State or Territory legislative or regulatory requirements.

OHS practices

OHS practices must include hazard identification and control, risk assessment and implementation of risk reduction measures specific to the tasks described by this unit and may include:

manual handling techniques

standard operating procedures

personal protective equipment

safe materials handling

taking of rest breaks

ergonomic arrangement of workplaces

following marked walkways

safe storage of equipment

housekeeping

reporting accidents and incidents

other OHS practices relevant to the job and enterprise

Draping tools and equipment may include:

body form

narrow tape

shoulder pads

tape measure

pen/pencil

scissors

square rule

marker pens

hole punch

pins

fashion triangle

French curve

pattern notcher

weights

Design schematics are:

the design lines as depicted in the fashion illustration that are then transferred onto the dress form using narrow tape

Structured over-garments must include:

jacket or overcoat with set-in or cut-on sleeve

collar

lining

creative and intricate styling

Structured over-garments may include:

jackets/overcoats with set-in sleeves

jackets/overcoats with cut-on sleeves - such as raglans and kimonos

jackets/overcoats with volume-draped panels

jackets/overcoats with cut-on collars

Fabric must be:

the fabric of the final garment or a fabric that has the same handle or drape

Fabric handling qualities may include:

fall

stretch

stability

drape

Drape plan may include

adding fullness (pleats, tucks, gathers)

multiple darts/division of darts

symmetric and/or asymmetric design features

cowls, twists, knots


Sectors

Sector

Fashion Design and Technology


Employability Skills

This unit contains employability skills.


Licensing Information

Not applicable.